The Food Legacy of Native Americans
Corn, beans, squash: all three have been renowned as the Sustainers of Life or the Three Sisters among Native Americans. As long as the Three Sisters are plentiful, good food, good health and a full tummy follow. For thousands of years, these three vegetables have nourished Native American tribes throughout the continental United States. European settlers in the New World would have starved if Native Americans hadn’t shown them how to grow The Three Sisters as well how to harvest food from the wild and hunt wild game.

Native American dietary practices evolved over centuries into a system that nourished the body, mind and spirit while honoring the Earth upon which it all depended. Many of these traditional foods are now staples in mainstream American diet and can be found on supermarket shelves. Along with corn, beans and squash (or pumpkin), these include chocolate, coffee, cranberries, blueberries, blackberries, wild plums, wild grapes, strawberries, huckleberries, wild blueberries, pecans, walnuts, hazel nuts, persimmons, paw paws, black cherries, wild potatoes, wild rice, acorns, wild turnips, Jerusalem artichokes (sunflower) and maple syrup.

Traditional Diet

Though the traditional Native American diet varied from region to region, these areas shared common characteristics: The most commonly consumed foods contained modest amounts of fat, were low in calories and high in fiber. The diets were also high in vitamins, minerals, phytochemicals and anti-oxidants. Protein came from wild game which is lower in body fat than grain-fed domesticated cattle. (Although domesticated animals who are allowed to graze are a lower in fat.) High fiber, nutrient packed vegetables and fruits were either grown or gathered. Diabetes was very rare and cancer, now the second most common killer of Natives, was almost unheard of.

According to Arthur Michalek, Ph.D. of the University of Buffalo, “At the turn of the century, cancer was so rare among American Indians that people thought they were immune. As late as 1950, cancer still was not an important health issue. But it is a growing menace now .....” When a research group headed by Dr. Michalek looked at the increased incidence of cancer among Native populations (Cancer. 2000 Mar. 1;88(5 Suppl):1207-13) it found that cancer is increasing at a higher percentage for Native Americans than for the general population.

The traditional diet afforded Native Americans strong bones, good teeth, and a strong immune system. Weston Price reported in his classic work Nutrition and Physical Degeneration (Keats Pub. 15th Ed. 2003) that tooth decay and dental deformities were rare among Native Americans who ate a traditional diet.

Corn, Beans and Squash

Corn, a centerpiece of the Native American diet, was a marvel of biotech engineering before the European settlers arrived. Native Americans encouraged the formation of ears or cobs on maize, a rather grass-like plant. While pre-European corn was self-sustaining, the varieties we grow now need human intervention to flourish. It needs continual replanting.

Today we mainly rely on one type of yellow corn, but Native Americans used corn that came in many colors and varieties. Flint corn or Indian corn can be red, blue, yellow or white and is a hardy corn growing in diverse climates. Popcorn is a type of flint corn. Sweet corn, which contains more sugar than other types of corn, is usually yellow or white and used for table eating. And field corn or dent corn contains more starch than other types and is grown for livestock feed.

For human consumption, corn should be soaked in lye or lime water until the outer shell of the kernel slips easily off. When the husk is lifted in a process called “skinning the corn” the B vitamin niacin, as well as other nutrients, become available for assimilation. Niacin is necessary for the metabolism of carbohydrates, fat and alcohol as well as the proper function of the nerves and the digestive system. The consumption of corn that has not been treated in the traditional manner can lead to pellagra, a niacin deficiency. The symptoms of pellagra include the three D’s: diarrhea, dermatitis, and dementia. Sufferers also often experience a sore, swollen tongue (Asia Pac J Clin Nutr. 2004;13(Suppl):S176). Today, this deficiency disease is found among folks who dine primarily on processed or fast foods, who eat corn which has not had the niacin released or been skinned, and who drink alcohol to excess (Nutrition. 2004 Sep;20(9):778-82).

Researchers have also found that we need niacin for other reasons: lower total cholesterol, more high density lipoproteins (good cholesterol) and a decreased risk of Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s disease (Harvard Health Pub. 10/04: Harvard Heart Letter).

Variations

Not all corn has the same nutritive value: different hues indicate different nutrient levels. For instance, yellow corn contains a wealth of nutrients including protein, fiber, folate, magnesium, calcium, selenium, Vitamin C and Vitamin A in the form of beta-carotene. Blue corn is even higher in protein, while being rich in the amino acid lysine and containing more iron than other varieties.

Today, agricultural scientists have genetically modified corn, along with soybeans and other crops. In 2003, U.S. farmers planted 167 million acres of genetically modified corn. According to Pacific Business News (9/7/04), in South Dakota 79% of all corn planted is now consists of genetically modified varieties. The genetically modified corn is resistant to herbicides and has been transformed into a high-sugar food for the making of high-fructose corn syrup, an ingredient in many processed foods which is suspected as a major contributing factor in the rise of obesity and diabetes. These new uses for corn represent dramatic shifts from its traditional forms.

Bean Benefits

Beans contain potent proteins as well as a wealth of B vitamins. The available types of beans seem almost endless: snap beans, shelly beans, pinto beans, kidney beans, black beans, red beans, navy beans, white beans – beans of all shapes and sizes. When eaten together, beans and corn provide complete protein for human nutrition that can take the place of meat in the diet. Beans, a member of the legume family, are also an important source of complex carbohydrates, fiber and minerals. Baked or slow-cooked, beans are inexpensive and low in fat. When beans are soaked overnight in water and then slow-cooked, less gas is formed during the digestion process in the intestines. Soaking beans allows the slow uptake of water which releases enzymes to activate the germination process and begins the conversion of complex sugars into simple ones. It is the complex sugars which cause gas when beans are eaten. Always pour off your soaking water and add fresh water for cooking.

A bean’s color holds clues to its phytonutrient content (the pigments that give vegetarian foods like beans their colors are used by the human body to fight off disease). In addition, a one cup serving of red beans provide 81% of our daily allowance of molybdenum, a potent anti-cancer nutrient; 57% of folate, a B vitamin that lowers the risk of birth defects; and 56% of our daily fiber, needed to lower cholesterol, support colon function and reduce the risk of colon and breast cancers (Foods & Nutrition Encyclopedia, Pegus Press).

The Mighty Squash

Squash comes in many colors, shapes and sizes and includes summer squashes, pumpkin and winter squashes. These potent foods pack a powerful punch of antioxidant activity, support liver function and are high in a variety of nutrients. A one cup serving of winter squash contains 182% of our daily requirement for pro-Vitamin A or beta-carotene, which is needed for good vision, strong bones, and a strong immune system. Winter squash also contains omega-3 essential fatty acids and is high in folate.

Harvest summer squash such as crookneck, zucchini and patty pan, when young and tender for maximum taste enjoyment. Winter squashes such as butternut and acorn should be harvested before frost, and leave a small bit of vine attached to prevent rotting during storage. Summer squash, with soft skin, should be eaten as soon as harvest or stored in the refrigerator. Winter squashes, with hard skin, can be stored for several weeks or months in a cool, dry room or cellar.

Together, corn, beans and squash make a perfect meal providing adequate protein and essential nutrients in a low fat, high protein tasty combination.

Companion Planting

Corn, squash and beans have been traditionally planted in concentric formations in a hill: Corn grew in the center of the hill, beans around the corn, and squash around the beans. The tall corn is strong and provides stalks for the beans to cling to. The leafy squash provides shade for the beans and surrounding ground, which holds moisture and forms a living mulch that reduces the amount of weeds that can grow. Beans also have nitrogen-fixing bacteria on their roots that supply nitrogen-hungry corn with fertilizer.

The Legacy

According to Kibbe Conti, a registered dietitian, the disruption of Native food systems has contributed to the increase in degenerative, chronic diseases such as type 2 diabetes among Native Americans, especially on reservations (J Transcul Nur 2006. 17(3):234-245).
By developing nutrition models that reflect traditional food patterns but uses modern foods, Kibbe believes that Native Americans can experience a reduction in disease risk factors and a return to health.

In June 2004, the USDA released the largest study to date of food antioxidant sources. Not surprisingly, many of the top 20 foods are traditional Native American foods. Antioxidants such as Vitamin A, C, and E and selenium, help reduce the risk of chronic diseases and cancer and reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease (J Agric Food Chem 2004 Jun 16;52(12):4026-37).